Argentina: Salta & Jujuy

My recent return trip to Argentina was rescheduled at least three times, required six negative Covid tests, and involved a seven-day in-home quarantine. I was finally able to return at the beginning of September, about two weeks later than planned due to unapproved and rescheduled flights as a result of government restrictions on the number of international passengers allowed to enter the country per day. At the time of my return, only Argentine citizens and permanent residents were allowed entry (the country has now opened to passengers from neighboring countries and will open borders to all foreign travelers in November), and a negative Covid test was required within 72 hours of departure. For good measure, I did two tests prior to my departure. Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, all passengers were required to do another test at the airport (this requirement has now been lifted due to over 50% of the population in Argentina being fully vaccinated). My negative result in Buenos Aires allowed me to return to my domicile in Cordoba where I completed a seven-day quarantine. I was visited by the Ministry of Health on two random occasions during this period and was tested three more times during those visits. After the final negative result on Day 7, I was allowed to leave the house. While in quarantine, we made plans for another road trip and hit the road shortly thereafter. This time we headed north through the provinces of Santiago del Estero, Catamarca, Tucumán, Salta, and Jujuy. Here are some of the highlights: 

Tucumán

After driving about 400 miles north through the lowlands of northern Cordoba, Santiago del Estero, and Catamarca, passing by lemon orchards and winding through a cloud forest to the highlands of Tucumán, we made it to the Quilmes Ruins. The stone walls and terraces pictured are what remains from the city established by the pre-Incan Quilmes tribe in the 9th century AD, having survived through centuries of Incan and Spanish attacks and conquests.

Salta

30 miles north of the Quilmes Ruins lies the city of Cafayate, where high-altitude wineries thrive. Cafayate sits around 5,522 feet in altitude and is located in a valley where crops are naturally protected by the surrounding mountains on both sides. While visiting two different wineries in the area (El Esteco and Piattelli), we learned that the grapes here benefit from long hours of strong sunshine and cool nightly temperatures. The most commonly produced varietals from this region are Malbec and Torrontés, followed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. 

Remnants from the colonial period followed us northward as we continued to the city of Salta, which was founded in 1582. Here we toured some incredibly ornate buildings including the Cathedral, the Church of San Francisco, the old City Hall, and the Church of the Candelaria. In pre-pandemic times, Salta was home to a huge pilgrimage honoring the Lord and Virgin of the Miracle, two images that were sent from Spain in the 16th century and arrived floating in a box to the coast of Peru, eventually ending up housed in Salta and surviving a devastating earthquake in 1692. This year the festivities were allowed again, though on a smaller scale, the main event taking place the week before we visited. In Salta we also unashamedly ate our weight in its famous and delectable empanadas.  

Jujuy

We continued further north to the province of Jujuy where we reached maximum altitude at 14,239 feet and admired the surrounding technicolor landscapes in the Quebrada de Humahuaca. The people in the small, adobe-filled towns scattered throughout this region were celebrating the beginning of spring as we visited. One highlight was seeing a group of pre-schoolers parade their spring-themed mini floats through the town of Tilcara. 

The mountains pictured above and below are commonly known as "The 14-Color Mountain" and "The 7-Color Mountain," respectively. However, one could probably count at least 50 different shades while sitting in awe and admiration. 

Beyond the twisting roads passing these geological wonders, a sudden and potent waft of sulfur filled the air as we made our way to the giant salt flats. This natural wonder is a result of ancient volcanic activity, and besides being a source of salt, it's the perfect setting for creating optical illusions.

Northern Argentina may not be first on people's list of places to visit in the country (the competition is stiff, to be honest), but its landscapes and history definitely make it a worthwhile trip. More photos from our road trip through northern Argentina can be seen here.